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Posted by on March 18, 2005, 3:55 am
Please log in for more thread options I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
changes.
In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
Thanks, later!
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Posted by anemone on March 18, 2005, 4:22 am
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I would do waterchanges first to see if it will even out your ph...it is a
better way to go
when doing the water changes, add a product like ph proper 7.0 (or whatever
ph you are willing to target) gradually to the water over several days
>I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
> nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
> ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
> hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
> 0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
> every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
> something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
> for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
> to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
> ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
> road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
> crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
> 15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
> had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
> and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
> bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
> became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
> changes.
>
> In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
> gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
> faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
> cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
> to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
> chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
> of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
> slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
> Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
> filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
> replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>
> Thanks, later!
>
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Posted by Elaine T on March 18, 2005, 5:01 am
Please log in for more thread options videoman@ccountry.net wrote:
> I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
> nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
> ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
> hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
> 0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
> every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
> something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
> for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
> to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
> ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
> road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
> crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
> 15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
> had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
> and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
> bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
> became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
> changes.
>
> In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
> gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
> faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
> cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
> to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
> chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
> of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
> slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
> Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
> filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
> replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>
> Thanks, later!
>
Plain, old-fashioned baking soda. It will raise pH, KH, and add
buffering. Start with 1/4 tsp in your size tank. If you have higher pH
fish that appreciate hard water too, put some coral or seashells in the
tank to hold the pH and water hardness at a higher level.
--
__ Elaine T __
><__'> http://eethomp.com/fish.html <'__><
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Posted by Dick on March 18, 2005, 5:43 am
Please log in for more thread options
On 18 Mar 2005 00:55:01 -0800, videoman@ccountry.net wrote:
>I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
>nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
>ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
>hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
>0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
>every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
>something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
>for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
>to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
>ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
>road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
>crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
>15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
>had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
>and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
>bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
>became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
>changes.
>
>In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
>gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
>faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
>cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
>to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
>chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
>of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
>slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
>Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
>filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
>replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>
>Thanks, later!
First of all I would not trust the reading. I think you would be
writing about dead fish if the 15 gallon tank pH was really 5.
I have 5 tanks ranging from 10g to 75g. I change 20% twice weekly.
The few times I have tested the tanks they all have pH of 7.8, the
same as the tap water. I leave the gravel alone unless there is
visible material.
I find it significant that the 2 tanks have different pH. Probably
more frequent water changes would bring them together. I would also
look at what minerals you have in the 15 gallon tank, that is
ornamental rocks or other materials. Something is different in the 2
tanks if the reading is correct.
I would also discontinue the aquasafe on the chance it is interacting
with something in the 15 gallon tank. In two years, I have not found
the chlorine to be a problem in the water changes. I killed some fish
before I could correct the pH which I had pushed way acid. That was
the last time I played with chemicals. I can't trust myself. Of
course, your local supply may require it, but do consider going
without unless your local conditions require. If you use a Python
Gravel Vac, not conditioning simplifies the procedure.
dick
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Posted by Ray Martini on March 18, 2005, 2:58 pm
Please log in for more thread options Sorry Elaine for being repetitive, I shoud have finished the thread before
posting on the A&H!
Dick has a great point. I never even check pH in my freshwater tanks
anymore. The fish adjusted fine to whatever the tap water is. 99% of the
fish we keep as hobbyists will adjust to pH and thrive just fine. Plus it
saved me a ton of stress worrying about it. The best success I've had with
fish tanks is when I leave them alone. A chemist I am not nor a plumber for
that matter (still have a small leak in the plumbing of my UV Sterilizer.
LOL
> On 18 Mar 2005 00:55:01 -0800, videoman@ccountry.net wrote:
>
>>I tested my bedroom (15 gallon) tank and the ammonia is near 0,
>>nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
>>ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
>>hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
>>0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
>>every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
>>something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
>>for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
>>to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
>>ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
>>road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
>>crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
>>15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
>>had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
>>and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
>>bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
>>became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
>>changes.
>>
>>In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
>>gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
>>faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
>>cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
>>to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
>>chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
>>of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
>>slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
>>Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
>>filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
>>replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>>
>>Thanks, later!
>
> First of all I would not trust the reading. I think you would be
> writing about dead fish if the 15 gallon tank pH was really 5.
>
> I have 5 tanks ranging from 10g to 75g. I change 20% twice weekly.
> The few times I have tested the tanks they all have pH of 7.8, the
> same as the tap water. I leave the gravel alone unless there is
> visible material.
>
> I find it significant that the 2 tanks have different pH. Probably
> more frequent water changes would bring them together. I would also
> look at what minerals you have in the 15 gallon tank, that is
> ornamental rocks or other materials. Something is different in the 2
> tanks if the reading is correct.
>
> I would also discontinue the aquasafe on the chance it is interacting
> with something in the 15 gallon tank. In two years, I have not found
> the chlorine to be a problem in the water changes. I killed some fish
> before I could correct the pH which I had pushed way acid. That was
> the last time I played with chemicals. I can't trust myself. Of
> course, your local supply may require it, but do consider going
> without unless your local conditions require. If you use a Python
> Gravel Vac, not conditioning simplifies the procedure.
>
> dick
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> nitrites are near 0, Nitrates are a little high but not alarmingly so,
> ph is around 5 (I know - this is why I need to use chemicals), general
> hardness is 8 dh, carbonate hardness (ie alkalinity) is very soft (near
> 0). I did a partial water change (approximately 1/3) and will do so
> every day until I get that ph up. I am going to use proper ph or
> something better if it exists for now on so that the ph is at 7.5 (good
> for these fish) and the carbonate hardness (alkalinity) is a lot higher
> to stabilize the ph. The 55 gallon in the other room has perfect
> ratings. I know that technically these water tests vary and are only
> road signs but this road sign is obvious about the ph. Is it a ph
> crash? I think it is. The 15 gallon I have had for over a year and
> 15-20% of the water was changed every 2 weeks but no gravel cleaning
> had been done on it for a long time so I think the alkalinity dropped
> and then recently the ph dropped to an alarming 5. I am glad to have
> bought this cheap master kit and the ph explains why the fish only
> became active (ie not hanging around the surface) soon after water
> changes.
>
> In summary - I think the only way I can prevent low ph in this 15
> gallon tank is to use a ph buffer and regulator thanks to my soft
> faucet water and low alkalinity water. Of course I will do a gravel
> cleaning every time I change water. Any recommendations (I know I need
> to up the ph by no more than .5 a day and to use a buffer)? The only
> chemicals I have ever used in my tanks up to now is aquasafe to get rid
> of chlorine and chloramines and deactivate heavy metals and add some
> slime coat (all of these with just that one water conditioner so far).
> Not even charcoal, just gravel cleaning, water changing, mechanical
> filter cleaning, biowheel cleaning (spray bar), and the usual (ie
> replacing a light bulb once or twice a year, cleaning airstones, etc.).
>
> Thanks, later!
>