Re: Curing ick

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Date

08-25-2008

Posted by mike d. on August 25, 2008, 10:19 am

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I had three or four fish in a ninety-two gallon tank, and they got ick, and
I treated it(the tank) with the blue copper compound but I didn't remove
any charcoal. I don't know if my charcoal was old and spent, or if it just
didn't stop the action of the copper sulfate, but the fish very quickly &
very completely recovered. Mike.

>I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i add kick
> ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was told
> that
> it will remove all medications from the water.
>
>

Posted by NoSpam on August 25, 2008, 2:51 pm

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>I had three or four fish in a ninety-two gallon tank, and they got
>ick, and I treated it(the tank) with the blue copper compound but I
>didn't remove any charcoal. I don't know if my charcoal was old and
>spent, or if it just didn't stop the action of the copper sulfate,
>but the fish very quickly & very completely recovered. Mike.

>>I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i
>>add kick
>> ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was
>> told that
>> it will remove all medications from the water.

Activated carbon absorbs what it can in about 1 week. Then it is
'used' and will do nothing. You should replace it.

If you had a UV sterilizer and a cleaner shrimp it would be rare that
you get ick in the first place, and if you do just increase the amount
of time the UV light is on.

If you get ick again dip the fish in a separate container of distilled
water or RO/DI water for around 1 minute.

You will NEVER get rid of all the copper (a poison) but do several 50%
water changes and you'll be able to reduce the amount.

3-4 pounds of live sand + whatever amount of white sterilized play
sand (home depot) will give you 100% live sand in around 9 months. For
a 6' tank you'd want a 3" sand bed.

Posted by expat on August 25, 2008, 5:00 pm

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>
>

> >I had three or four fish in a ninety-two gallon tank, and they got
> >ick, and I treated it(the tank) with the blue copper compound =A0but I
> >didn't remove any charcoal. I don't know if my charcoal was old and
> >spent, or if it just didn't stop the action of the copper sulfate,
> >but the fish very quickly & very completely =A0recovered. =A0Mike.

> >>I recently had an ick outbreak in my tank and was wondering. If i
> >>add kick
> >> ick do i need to take my activated carbon out of my filter? I was
> >> told that
> >> it will remove all medications from the water.

>
> Activated carbon absorbs what it can in about 1 week. Then it is
> 'used' and will do nothing. You should replace it.
>
> If you had a UV sterilizer and a cleaner shrimp it would be rare that
> you get ick in the first place, and if you do just increase the amount
> of time the UV light is on.
>
> If you get ick again dip the fish in a separate container of distilled
> water or RO/DI water for around 1 minute.
>
> You will NEVER get rid of all the copper (a poison) but do several 50%
> water changes and you'll be able to reduce the amount.
>
> 3-4 pounds of live sand + whatever amount of white sterilized play
> sand (home depot) will give you 100% live sand in around 9 months. For
> a 6' tank you'd want a 3" sand bed.

Putting vcoper in a marine fish tank is bad to do. A quick and simple
dip in RODI water that is preferablly temp and PH matched tothe tanks
water is a very effective way to fix an ICH problem. Use a separate
tank or container to use for the dip of about 1 or 2 minutes. I let em
in for as long as possible or up till the fish starts to stress out. I
also like to keep the tank free of any fish for a couple of weeks as
well after the infected fish are removed in additon to healthy fish as
without a host the ich parasite will die. It pays to have a basic bare
hospital or quarantine tank with fresh or salt water fish.

Odds are you may have problems if you ever decide to have any inverts
with the copper that is in any live rock or silicone seals, but if its
a fish only tank its not a problem other than the usual staining of
the silicone seals. When you dip a marine fish with ICH in freshwater
you can literally see the parasites
"explode and drop off the fish"

Posted by no-spam on August 27, 2008, 11:09 pm

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This method is not practical, it sounds good in theory. The biggest pitfall
with this method is that you have to first catch the fish from the tank, and
catching them is not easy unless you have a bare bottom tank, no coral, no
landscaping.

>Putting vcoper in a marine fish tank is bad to do. A quick and simple
>dip in RODI water that is preferablly temp and PH matched tothe tanks
>water is a very effective way to fix an ICH problem. Use a separate
>tank or container to use for the dip of about 1 or 2 minutes. I let em
>in for as long as possible or up till the fish starts to stress out. I
>also like to keep the tank free of any fish for a couple of weeks as
>well after the infected fish are removed in additon to healthy fish as
>without a host the ich parasite will die. It pays to have a basic bare
>hospital or quarantine tank with fresh or salt water fish.
>
>Odds are you may have problems if you ever decide to have any inverts
>with the copper that is in any live rock or silicone seals, but if its
>a fish only tank its not a problem other than the usual staining of
>the silicone seals. When you dip a marine fish with ICH in freshwater
>you can literally see the parasites
>"explode and drop off the fish"

Posted by expat on August 28, 2008, 12:15 pm

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> This method is not practical, it sounds good in theory. The biggest pitfa=

ll

> with this method is that you have to first catch the fish from the tank, =

and

> catching them is not easy unless you have a bare bottom tank, no coral, n=

o

> landscaping.
>
>
>
>
>

> >Putting vcoper in a marine fish tank is bad to do. A quick and simple
> >dip in RODI water that is preferablly temp and PH matched tothe tanks
> >water is a very effective way to fix an ICH problem. Use a separate
> >tank or container to use for the dip of about 1 or 2 minutes. I let em
> >in for as long as possible or up till the fish starts to stress out. I
> >also like to keep the tank free of any fish for a couple of weeks as
> >well after the infected fish are removed in additon to healthy fish as
> >without a host the ich parasite will die. It pays to have a basic bare
> >hospital or quarantine tank with fresh or salt water fish.

>

> >Odds are you may have problems if you ever decide to have any inverts
> >with the copper that is in any live rock or silicone seals, but if its
> >a fish only tank its not a problem other than the usual staining of
> >the silicone seals. When you dip a marine fish =A0with ICH in freshwater
> >you can literally see the parasites
> >"explode and drop off the fish"- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

Whats so hard about catching a fish,. Evidently the fish is smarter
than you are as I have never had any problems catching any fish I had
a need to catch. All it takes is having a higher IQ than the fish so
you can out wit it.......Pretty simple IMHO. Makes it no more
difficult in a bare bottom or a reef tank. There is lots of various
ways to catch them, all without a problem..maybe a bit time consuming
with some, but still 110% doable.

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