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Re: hard water low alkaline

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Re: hard water low alkaline JoJon 04-22-2005
Posted by JoJon on April 22, 2005, 6:30 am
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>>>> >I have very hard water and very low alkaline (which I presume means
>>>> >it's
>>>> >acidic). What type of community fish thrive best in these conditions
>>>> >please? (don't want to mess around with the water)
>>>> > thanks
>>>> Should have elaborated on that more I suppose. - ph is 6.6 -6.8, 0
>>>> ammonia,
>>>> nil nitrite, nitrate stays at around 20ppm, tank is planted, set up for
>>>> about 12 months, currently holding a couple of gouramis, a couple of
>>>> Congo
>>>> tetras, some neons and some rummy nose and a couple of cories. All been
>>>> quite happy for about 9 months. Tank is 75 gals by the way. Oh also
>>>> have a
>>>> damn Indian algae eater that terrorises every bloody fish in there. I
>>>> spend
>>>> many hours each week trying to catch the damn thing without any luck.
>>>
>>> Build a fish trap;
>>> Take a plastic soda (pop) bottle, cut the top off past were the neck
>>> curves out to the bodies width. Invert the neck into the bottom, put an
>>> algea waffer or other food item into the bottom. Now sink it, the fish
>>> will swim in and not find his way out.
>>> <http://www.floridadriftwood.com/fish_trap.htm>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jim Anderson
>>> ( 8(|) To email me just pull my_finger
>>
>> Many thanks for that - I'll have a go. It can go and terrorise the bush
>> fish for a while!
>> Re the water GH from tank is 200, KH is virtually nil. (And readings are
>> same for all four tanks by the way, including the cw goldie tank. Main
>> trop tank has been set up for about 12 months, cw for a couple of years
>> and smaller gourami tank and bush fish tank for about 6 months )
>> Tap water is GH 100, KH nil. I used to add coral to the filter because
>> there are one or two mollies in there but at the moment I have charcoal
>> in the main tank filter and they still seem happy and are still breeding.
>> (Really must move that male!) I have nothing in the other tank filters.
>> I don't really want to start having to add chemicals etc to the water -
>> I'd rather try to choose fish that like the conditions than to adapt the
>> conditions to the fish
>
>
> Tank water is 11dgH (I think in dgH a perfectly good simplified system for
> aquariums), tap water is 5.6dgH. According to faq.thekrib.com, your tap
> water is soft (4-8dgH) and your tank is medium-hard (8-12dgH, and their
> are 3 more hardness categories after that).
>
> I'm at a loss to explain the 5dgH difference between tap and tank, unless
> you are doing too infrequent water changes. I'm also uncertain about your
> 0dkH buffer. Your water source must go through a unique sequence of media
> before it reaches your home. Yours might be the best application for
> adding baking soda, that I have ever seen, but where your pH would
> naturally level at is a bit of a mystery given your current parameters.
> I'm usually a big fan of matching fish to water and leaving the water
> mostly alone, but your recipe has some drawbacks which you should be aware
> of.
>
> Incidentally, your subject line might be changing. Currently you are low
> alkalinity and slightly acidic, but adding baking soda will increase your
> alkalinity which might change your acidic water to become alkaline.
>
> The hazards are as follows: low alkalinity (dkH or buffer) results in
> water which is prone to pH swings and there are many thing in an aquarium
> which can try to move the pH around. Most minerals and at some stages,
> waste will raise pH. Acids (ie: carbonic acid from CO2 injection), plant
> and animal decay and at most other stages - waste will lower pH, and water
> changes will flip the pH closer to tap water conditions. With sufficient
> buffer (ie: 5dkH), your buffer will be affected (which fish are oblivious
> to), instead of your pH (which fish have varying degrees of sensitivity to
> change in).
>
> Another hazard is that unless you are heavily planted, you rely heavily on
> nitrifying bacteria to remove toxins (NH3, NO2) from the water by
> converting them to NO3. These bacteria survive poorly under acidic (low
> pH) conditions. Fortunately, ammonia also remains in more of the
> non-toxic NH4 state under acidic conditions, but if your buffer is low and
> your pH starts bouncing around..... I don't need to draw you a map ;~).
>
> --
> www.NetMax.tk

Oh dear - I'm totally lost when it comes to water chemistry (or any
chemistry for that matter). I've just tested my tap water again, using a
different test kit and the first readings are definitely right. I am very
very reluctant to start adding anything to the water. The tank currently has
some mollies, neons, a couple of clown loach, a couple of gouramis, 5
hatchets, 5 glass catfish, an angel and a couple of plecs. All (touch wood)
seem healthy, eat well etc. All have been in for at least 4 months. I have
removed carbon from filters now so how about I go back to adding the coral
to the filter? The ph rises very gradually then. (Readings today after water
change PH 6.6, ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 20ppm, GH 150 KH still
virtually nil. same for other tanks except cw where the ph is 7)



Posted by Fishman on April 22, 2005, 11:09 am
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"JoJon" <djhatukpcdotnet> wrote in message
>
> >>>>> MAJOR SNIP<<<<<<<<<
>
> Oh dear - I'm totally lost when it comes to water chemistry (or any
> chemistry for that matter). I've just tested my tap water again, using a
> different test kit and the first readings are definitely right. I am very
> very reluctant to start adding anything to the water. The tank currently
> has some mollies, neons, a couple of clown loach, a couple of gouramis, 5
> hatchets, 5 glass catfish, an angel and a couple of plecs. All (touch
> wood) seem healthy, eat well etc. All have been in for at least 4 months.
> I have removed carbon from filters now so how about I go back to adding
> the coral to the filter? The ph rises very gradually then. (Readings today
> after water change PH 6.6, ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 20ppm, GH 150 KH
> still virtually nil. same for other tanks except cw where the ph is 7)
>

Presumably you bought your fish from a "local" fish shop?
Presumably your LFS uses the same water supply & chemistry as you?
If so, your fish will be acclimatised to the local water conditions.

Remember that if you change your water chemistry any future fish additions
will find the change a sudden shock.

Give that none of the fish species you mention are very fussy about water
chemistry I'd suggest you leave the chemistry alone.
Just keep up regular water changes and if all is well leave alone.

Remember the old saying "If it ain't broke don't fix it"



Posted by NetMax on April 23, 2005, 12:28 am
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"JoJon" <djhatukpcdotnet> wrote in message
>
>
>>>>> >I have very hard water and very low alkaline (which I presume
>>>>> >means it's
>>>>> >acidic). What type of community fish thrive best in these
>>>>> >conditions
>>>>> >please? (don't want to mess around with the water)
>>>>> > thanks
>>>>> Should have elaborated on that more I suppose. - ph is 6.6 -6.8, 0
>>>>> ammonia,
>>>>> nil nitrite, nitrate stays at around 20ppm, tank is planted, set up
>>>>> for
>>>>> about 12 months, currently holding a couple of gouramis, a couple
>>>>> of
>>>>> Congo
>>>>> tetras, some neons and some rummy nose and a couple of cories. All
>>>>> been
>>>>> quite happy for about 9 months. Tank is 75 gals by the way. Oh
>>>>> also
>>>>> have a
>>>>> damn Indian algae eater that terrorises every bloody fish in there.
>>>>> I
>>>>> spend
>>>>> many hours each week trying to catch the damn thing without any
>>>>> luck.
>>>>
>>>> Build a fish trap;
>>>> Take a plastic soda (pop) bottle, cut the top off past were the neck
>>>> curves out to the bodies width. Invert the neck into the bottom, put
>>>> an
>>>> algea waffer or other food item into the bottom. Now sink it, the
>>>> fish
>>>> will swim in and not find his way out.
>>>> <http://www.floridadriftwood.com/fish_trap.htm>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Jim Anderson
>>>> ( 8(|) To email me just pull my_finger
>>>
>>> Many thanks for that - I'll have a go. It can go and terrorise the
>>> bush fish for a while!
>>> Re the water GH from tank is 200, KH is virtually nil. (And readings
>>> are same for all four tanks by the way, including the cw goldie tank.
>>> Main trop tank has been set up for about 12 months, cw for a couple
>>> of years and smaller gourami tank and bush fish tank for about 6
>>> months )
>>> Tap water is GH 100, KH nil. I used to add coral to the filter
>>> because there are one or two mollies in there but at the moment I
>>> have charcoal in the main tank filter and they still seem happy and
>>> are still breeding. (Really must move that male!) I have nothing in
>>> the other tank filters. I don't really want to start having to add
>>> chemicals etc to the water - I'd rather try to choose fish that like
>>> the conditions than to adapt the conditions to the fish
>>
>>
>> Tank water is 11dgH (I think in dgH a perfectly good simplified system
>> for aquariums), tap water is 5.6dgH. According to faq.thekrib.com,
>> your tap water is soft (4-8dgH) and your tank is medium-hard (8-12dgH,
>> and their are 3 more hardness categories after that).
>>
>> I'm at a loss to explain the 5dgH difference between tap and tank,
>> unless you are doing too infrequent water changes. I'm also uncertain
>> about your 0dkH buffer. Your water source must go through a unique
>> sequence of media before it reaches your home. Yours might be the
>> best application for adding baking soda, that I have ever seen, but
>> where your pH would naturally level at is a bit of a mystery given
>> your current parameters. I'm usually a big fan of matching fish to
>> water and leaving the water mostly alone, but your recipe has some
>> drawbacks which you should be aware of.
>>
>> Incidentally, your subject line might be changing. Currently you are
>> low alkalinity and slightly acidic, but adding baking soda will
>> increase your alkalinity which might change your acidic water to
>> become alkaline.
>>
>> The hazards are as follows: low alkalinity (dkH or buffer) results in
>> water which is prone to pH swings and there are many thing in an
>> aquarium which can try to move the pH around. Most minerals and at
>> some stages, waste will raise pH. Acids (ie: carbonic acid from CO2
>> injection), plant and animal decay and at most other stages - waste
>> will lower pH, and water changes will flip the pH closer to tap water
>> conditions. With sufficient buffer (ie: 5dkH), your buffer will be
>> affected (which fish are oblivious to), instead of your pH (which fish
>> have varying degrees of sensitivity to change in).
>>
>> Another hazard is that unless you are heavily planted, you rely
>> heavily on nitrifying bacteria to remove toxins (NH3, NO2) from the
>> water by converting them to NO3. These bacteria survive poorly under
>> acidic (low pH) conditions. Fortunately, ammonia also remains in more
>> of the non-toxic NH4 state under acidic conditions, but if your buffer
>> is low and your pH starts bouncing around..... I don't need to draw
>> you a map ;~).
>>
>> --
>> www.NetMax.tk
>
> Oh dear - I'm totally lost when it comes to water chemistry (or any
> chemistry for that matter). I've just tested my tap water again, using
> a different test kit and the first readings are definitely right. I am
> very very reluctant to start adding anything to the water. The tank
> currently has some mollies, neons, a couple of clown loach, a couple of
> gouramis, 5 hatchets, 5 glass catfish, an angel and a couple of plecs.
> All (touch wood) seem healthy, eat well etc. All have been in for at
> least 4 months. I have removed carbon from filters now so how about I
> go back to adding the coral to the filter? The ph rises very gradually
> then. (Readings today after water change PH 6.6, ammonia 0 Nitrite 0
> Nitrate 20ppm, GH 150 KH still virtually nil. same for other tanks
> except cw where the ph is 7)


I usually recommend using natural buffers like coral instead of baking
soda. The only reason I made an exception in your case is that natural
buffers take some time to work, and your kH is zero. Go ahead with the
coral. Perhaps put some extra in the tank too. Gravel vacuuming is
extra important as you want to minimize the possibility of decay
acidifying your water. Are there any hobbyists in your area who you
could share notes with?
--
www.NetMax.tk



Posted by Sue on April 24, 2005, 7:44 am
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I get virtually zero kH water out of the tap.

To prevent the risk of pH crashes I keep a small - 1" square ish - piece of
cuttlefish "bone" in the filter. This is pure calcium carbonate in a very
soft form which will just lift a kH a couple of degrees and give the needed
buffering without upsetting any other levels.



Posted by JoJon on April 24, 2005, 12:20 pm
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>I get virtually zero kH water out of the tap.
>
> To prevent the risk of pH crashes I keep a small - 1" square ish - piece
> of cuttlefish "bone" in the filter. This is pure calcium carbonate in a
> very soft form which will just lift a kH a couple of degrees and give the
> needed buffering without upsetting any other levels.
Is this the stuff you put in bird cages?



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